Monday, November 24, 2014

MY DIY 3D Printer update

I have made several upgrades to my 3D printer.  Like for instance an oversize fiberglass Y axis carriage.


Here it is printing out a Mendel90 X axis motor end.  I am working on printing out all the parts of the Mendel90 3D printer.


Here is my growing collection of "Bricks".  Things that did not turn out like tey were supposed to.

Here is a link to my latest video.
http://youtu.be/nLawLOgIe3Y?list=UU49j5FVUO2KIFyH2IXmGXjg

Monday, November 17, 2014

Crown XTi 1000 power amplifier repair

Over the weekend I dissembled and repaired a Crown XTi-1000 amplifier.  The problem was caused by bad connections on a bridge rectifier located in the power supply section.

This is a close up of the bad connections.  The leads needed to be cleaned and re-soldered.

This is the corner of the board where the problem is found.

This is what the amplifier looks like with the cover removed.  You need to remove the front, then all the screws on the back, then all of the screws holding the board in place.  There are four screws holding the heat-sinks in place that are under the foam.


Tuesday, November 11, 2014

Chevy Cobalt Replacing the front door speakers

One of the first things I do when I buy something used is to make a list of things to repair.  On the car it is something like this:
1. Prime
2. Paint
3. Undercoat
4. Door locks stick
5. Snow tires
6. Front Speakers
7. Do Spider Spikes fit?

So far 1, 2, and 5 are fixed.  When it comes to the front speakers Pioneer actually makes speakers that fit.  You can also buy an adapter that will allow you to use any 6.5 inch speaker if you want.  The wiring adapter is not needed.  Just tin the wires and they will fit tightly into the jack that was connected to the old speaker.

The new speakers come with clips that need to be installed first as seen in the picture below.

To install the speaker first remove or pry out the door cover near the speaker.  There are three screws behind plastic snap in covers that you will need to remove to take the inside door cover off.  Remove one screw and the old speaker comes out.  Connect the wires for the new speaker.  The wires can be taped in place with electrical tape.

Put one side of the new speaker in and then rotate it up and down to catch the two clips on the opposite side.  Tighten up the screws.  Use duct tape to fill the gaps above and below the new speaker to block road noise.

You are done!  It only takes ten minutes to do.  Turn on the radio and make sure that the new speakers work.

Now I can actually hear the turn signals, as the sound comes through the speakers.  Hopefully the warning that the headlights were left on will work too.


Thursday, November 6, 2014

My New(er) car - a 2007 Chevy Cobalt

After 20 years of driving vans, I have made a drastic change.  I drive 45 miles to work every day and the cost of gas for the van was running around $5000 a year.  So I have bought a car that should get me about twice the gas mileage and save me the cost of the car every two years.  These pictures were taken right after I touched up the paint.  There were some rust spots on the fender around the rear tires.




So far the Cobalt is getting me around 34 MPG according to the built in mileage calculator.  I hope to make some minor changes to get that up to 40 MPG.

Wednesday, October 15, 2014

Building my own 3D printer part 3 and the first video


My 3D printer had its first test run last night.  So far I need to replace the X axis stepper motor it has a bad connection inside of it somewhere as can be seen in this video on Youtube.

http://youtu.be/s77h1BQ-EVQ

Here is a picture of the jumpers to convert the Ramps board to a printer 25 pin interface.  I only connected to the pins that I needed for X, Y, and Z for Step, Direction and Enable, they are blue, green and yellow.  The enables are all connected to ground.  Then I also needed to connect to ground and 5 Volts, they are yellow and red, the top two connections..


Here is another video of the DIY 3D printer this time it is running with and Arduino Mega.

http://youtu.be/YemKKhmJT2o

Here is a picture of the Ramps wiring.  The heat bed is not wired up yet.
Here is the wiring with the heat bed wires in.  I spliced the ribbon cable into some 14 gauge stranded cable and covered the splice with heat shrink.

Here is the third video.  This was my first extrusion attempt.


Here is what I got from my first attempt at making something.  It was supposed to be a 8mm bearing support.





Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Building my own Mendel 90 3D printer part 2

My 3D printer is coming along quite nicely but slowly.  I have started doing the electrical wiring as can be seen in this picture.  Notice the custom made aluminum motor mounts and the use of standard "off-the-shelf" parts throughout.  My next book will give the details of construction it will be titled "Inexpensive 3D Printer Projects".


I purchased standard ends for the X-Axis ends but I have come up with plans as to how to make my own X Axis ends.  I really think even the X Axis ends can be made with standard parts and a piece of Plexiglas or aluminum to hold it together.  The only tricky part would be the "Nut bracket".  That could be made out of Plexiglas.  Just drill a 1/2 inch hole in it and then melt the 5/16" nut into the hole.

Here is a picture of my homemade X axis carriage.  I had to cut the 1/2 inch pipe supports to fit them in the space available (There is approx 2.05 inches between the rails).  The two holes at the back are for mounting the Extruder. The holes at the front already existed but they are for the belt clamps.  The center hole was just a little over 1.25 inches in diameter but it was not big enough to lower the hot end down through.  I had to disassemble it and reassemble it through the hole.  I need to cut off 1/2 inch at the front as it is not needed.  I changed the design and moved the holes out 1/8 an inch.  Then I countersunk them and used flat head 6-32 screws.  Now the print head sits flush.

It is almost done!  Just the 25 pin connector at the bottom right and the heatbed to wire up and it will be done.  Here is what it looks like at this point.