Here is an excellent video on how to change the actuator.
I used my fingers to disconnect the electrical connector and that might be easier to do before the actuator is removed. It is identical to the other connector to the right so you can see what your are feeling for. Basically you push in a small tab in the center and pull up on the wires.
Here is an great picture of what to look for behind the glove box.
This is how to test the heating and cooling system.
Turn the heating/cooling system off before you start.
The self-test can be initiated after cycling the ignition switch from OFF to ON.
For the self-test, press the OFF and DEFROST buttons together and release them.
Then press the AUTO button - ALL within 2 seconds.
The display will show a moving bar-graph icon for 20 seconds.
If diagnostic codes are present, they will be displayed.
My codes were "12 42" and "22 67"
When done press any button to exit.
Wait 30 seconds to turn the key off for the computer to re-calibrate.
Here is a picture looking into the glove box area.
This picture is going in a little closer. I moved the white wire harness down out of the way.
Here is the tool setup I used to get to the back screw. I had to purchase a 1/4 inch universal joint for $5 that you cannot see in the picture.
Here is what is inside of the actuator. You can test the motor with a 9 volt battery. The two connections to the motor are on the right side (back) of the motor. My motor turned a couple of times and stopped. I thought maybe the mechanics were stopping it, but no it was the motor itself.
***UPDATE *** A year later I had the same problem again!! This time I cut away the wiring cover above the actuator with a razor knife. Then I used wire cutters to cut the plastic next to the wire so as to not cut the wires. Then I drilled a tiny hole and put a 2 inch deck screw into the black part of the actuator so that it can be locked in place on either hot or cold depending on the time of year.