Saturday, May 5, 2018

Ford Taurus Passenger Blend Door Actuator

My wife's car had the heat stuck on for the passenger side only.  It was way too hot and it would not turn down.  The problem was a motorized door that was stuck.

Here is an excellent video on how to change the actuator.

I used my fingers to disconnect the electrical connector and that might be easier to do before the actuator is removed.  It is identical to the other connector to the right so you can see what your are feeling for.  Basically you push in a small tab in the center and pull up on the wires.

Here is an great picture of what to look for behind the glove box.

Source: http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/114-5th-6th-gen-maintenance-repair/244434-driver-side-blows-cold-passenger-side-blows-hot.html

This is how to test the heating and cooling system.
Turn the heating/cooling system off before you start.

The self-test can be initiated after cycling the ignition switch from OFF to ON.
For the self-test, press the OFF and DEFROST buttons together and release them.
Then press the AUTO button - ALL within 2 seconds.
The display will show a moving bar-graph icon for 20 seconds.
If diagnostic codes are present, they will be displayed.
My codes were "12 42" and "22 67"
When done press any button to exit.
Wait 30 seconds to turn the key off for the computer to re-calibrate.

Here is a picture looking into the glove box area.

This picture is going in a little closer.  I moved the white wire harness down out of the way.

Here is the tool setup I used to get to the back screw.  I had to purchase a 1/4 inch universal joint for $5 that you cannot see in the picture.

Here is what is inside of the actuator.  You can test the motor with a 9 volt battery.  The two connections to the motor are on the right side (back) of the motor.  My motor turned a couple of times and stopped.  I thought maybe the mechanics were stopping it, but no it was the motor itself.
***UPDATE ***  A year later I had the same problem again!!  This time I cut away the wiring cover above the actuator with a razor knife.  Then I used wire cutters to cut the plastic next to the wire so as to not cut the wires.  Then I drilled a tiny hole and put a 2 inch deck screw into the black part of the actuator so that it can be locked in place on either hot or cold depending on the time of year.



17 comments:

Frank said...

The situation is the same for the Taurus, however I need to remove the harness cover with the push pin. How is it done

Unknown said...

How many blend door actuators on a 2013 ford Taurus

Bob Davis said...

There are at least 2 one for each side. Maybe more...

Anonymous said...

I just completed putting in a new BDA on my 2012 Taurus Limited.

The hardest part of this was getting that freakin plastic harness shield out of the way. It is a 2 piece cover that has a snap latch on the bottom which you can see, the top which you basically do by feel and the bottle brush push connector. I wound up using a small wire cutter to break the top one because I couldn't get any kind of tool or fingers in there to release the tab. Then I had to cut free the cloth tape that held the harness to the shield.
Prior to doing all that, I had tried multiple ways to get the "hard" screw out without any success. I did take a 1/4" drive, 5/16" socket as mentioned in a previous post and ground it down to the smallest size I could. Then using a 1/4" swivel and extension, the screw came out easy.
It's not that hard if you get that shield out of the way!

Unknown said...

How many blend actuators on 2015 Taurus? I pulled the glove box to access the easy one on heater box hah. Then looked to the left,saw another one just like it was unable to remove plastic cover with push pin with 2 wire harnesses appeared to be behind cover. Cover taped,and clips unable to pry off. Does dash have too come out?

Bob Davis said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Bob Davis said...

You do not need to remove the dash! You can cut the wiring harness cover (as I did in my last picture) or remove it completely as someone else posted above..

Unknown said...

This was a painful job. I bought 3 different tools even then I just broke the tab to get this thing out. After that, the wire is so up there and I have to scratch my fingers to get that out.
But it all paid this week it is snow and polar freeze in Chicago. And there is no air draft on the passenger side anymore. I also realize for some reason foot side air is controlled by that actuator.

Anonymous said...

2010 Ford Taurus Limited Blend Doors Actuators Replacement (w dual controls)

There are TWO passenger actuators used on this vehicle. The one is located behind the glove box and the other on the left side of the glove box about where the trunk locking button is.

The original factory installed actuator behind the glove box on this vehicle was white and the other was black but both were marked AA5Z-19E616-C, so they are the same!
The right outer (behind glove box) controls the distribution of air and is usually the cause of “clicking noise” behind the dash. The right inter controls hot or cold (A/C or Heater). When I first replaced the easy to install right actuator, that was “clicking” I thought I was done, however it was Summer and I did not check if the heater was working. When my Wife went on an Out-of-State trip and much colder the passenger vents were blowing cold air only! This seems to be a common issue.

Now for the real issue, replacing the out- of -site right passenger actuator that controls hot or cold temperature air flow to the right-side air vents. One clue is this is estimated as around a $400.00 Dealer labor cost charge for a $20.00 parts replacement!

After removing the glove box door



You then need to remove the plastic harness shield as shown above and unsnap the bottom release tab. To unsnap the top tab I purchased a Speed Electric Drill Grinding Rotary Tool Kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JLFGJ7Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



You will also need to have a ¼ drive 5/16 socket, 1/4 drive swivel, extensions, ratchets, shop light, pen light flash light and a lot of time.

The push pin that holds the cover in place at the rear can be cut off, that you can see. The wiring cover (2 piece) has wiring run inside from the top entering and exiting at the bottom held in place with cloth tape. To cut it off cut it on protruding tabs on the cover so not to cut any wires. You should now be able to remove this cover.

You now can see this actuator in need of replacement, after you place the back of this harness out of the way. I wanted to remove it completely but could not get it loose. The rear 5/16 (bottom) Actuator mounting bolt is viewable and removable. The other mounting screw up front is the real issue. I attempted to use the 5/16 socket with the flex joint plus several extensions and a short ratchet. I used the Drill Grinding Rotary Tool Kit to open up the hole surrounding the bolt to be remove a little. I also used cable tie back straps to get the harness out of the way. The flex joint was too flexible so I wrapped it with tape to firm it up and did get this screw loose. I then just only used the socket with the flex joint attached using only my fingers to loosen and remove the screw. Remove the defective part after disconnecting the short power harness on top. You can see how it is attached on the other Actuator.

Before installing the replacement, I cut off the extra tab to ease install, attach the above harness onto the new Actuator. Using a pen light flash light I matched up the splines of the too and rotated a short distance clockwise to install. I started the bottom screw but did not tighten to help with the install of the top other hard to reach other one. I again used the only way I found using the socket with swivel flex attached (wrapped with tape) to start and install it. I also, this time, place tape over the screw to the socket to keep it from dropping out attempting to install it! After a long attempt, Success!
Good Luck!!!

Rickaren

https://www.taurusclub.com/threads/2010-ford-taurus-limited-blend-doors-actuators-replacement-w-dual-controls.351860/

Anonymous said...

2010 Ford Taurus Limited Blend Doors Actuators Replacement (w dual controls)

Thanks to this Forum and several others I wanted to replace BOTH passenger Actuators with the latest BLACK replacement with Motor Craft part number YH-1779 motor assembly. However, I received a WHITE actuator # AA5Z-19E616-C factory marked as their BLACK latest actuator. I found what was needed @ Amazon
Blend Door Actuator -

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61Az-oJNBhL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

with LIFETIME WARRANTY!

While this is not a genuine Ford or Motorcraft part it is a direct replacement for the factory blend door actuator. Their part number is X001L4X2PF

RICKAREN

Anonymous said...

There are TWO passenger actuators used on this vehicle. The one is located behind the glove box and the other on the left side of the glove box about where the trunk locking button is.
The original factory installed actuator behind the glove box on this vehicle was white and the other was black but both were marked AA5Z-19E616-C, so they are the same!
The right outer (behind glove box) controls the distribution of air and is usually the cause of “clicking noise” behind the dash. The right inter controls hot or cold (A/C or Heater). When I first replaced the easy to install right actuator, that was “clicking” I thought I was done, however it was Summer and I did not check if the heater was working. When my Wife went on an Out-of-State trip and much colder the passenger vents were blowing cold air only! This seems to be a common issue.

Now for the real issue, replacing the out- of -site right passenger actuator that controls hot or cold temperature air flow to the right-side air vents. One clue is this is estimated as around a $400.00 Dealer labor cost charge for a $20.00 parts replacement!

After removing the glove box door
Check Out:
Ford Taurus Passenger Blend Door Actuator Replacement



You then need to remove the plastic harness shield as shown above and unsnap the bottom release tab. To unsnap the top tab I purchased a Speed Electric Drill Grinding Rotary Tool Kit



You will also need to have a ¼ drive 5/16 socket, 1/4 drive swivel, extensions, ratchets, shop light, pen light flash light and a lot of time.

The push pin that holds the cover in place at the rear can be cut off, that you can see. The wiring cover (2 piece) has wiring run inside from the top entering and exiting at the bottom held in place with cloth tape. To cut it off cut it on protruding tabs on the cover so not to cut any wires. You should now be able to remove this cover.
You now can see this actuator in need of replacement, after you place the back of this harness out of the way. I wanted to remove it completely but could not get it loose. The rear 5/16 (bottom) Actuator mounting bolt is viewable and removable. The other mounting screw up front is the real issue. I attempted to use the 5/16 socket with the flex joint plus several extensions and a short ratchet. I used the Drill Grinding Rotary Tool Kit to open up the hole surrounding the bolt to be remove a little. I also used cable tie back straps to get the harness out of the way. The flex joint was too flexible so I wrapped it with tape to firm it up and did get this screw loose. I then just only used the socket with the flex joint attached using only my fingers to loosen and remove the screw. Remove the defective part after disconnecting the short power harness on top. You can see how it is attached on the other Actuator.

Before installing the replacement, I cut off the extra tab to ease install, attach the above harness onto the new Actuator. Using a pen light flash light I matched up the splines of the too and rotated a short distance clockwise to install. I started the bottom screw but did not tighten to help with the install of the top other hard to reach other one. I again used the only way I found using the socket with swivel flex attached (wrapped with tape) to start and install it. I also, this time, place tape over the screw to the socket to keep it from dropping out attempting to install it! After a long attempt, Success!
Good Luck!!!

Rickaren

David said...

Great video, do you have one for the defrost blend door actuator as well?

Unknown said...

Hey how many blend door actuators are there on 2008 first taurus

Mozzie said...

That black box for the wiring harness is a fucking nightmare. I want to meet the engineer who thought that was a great idea and smack them across their stupid face.

romvert said...

The splines on the new actuator I got from Napa, don't seem match up to the splines in the hole. Do I have the wrong part or is there a trick to get it in there?

Bob Davis said...

romvert, it only aligns in one position and the part it goes into rotates back if you try to change it. I think the solution was to connect the controller to its power source and turn on heat or was it cold? One or the other will get it to align.

romvert said...

Thanks for that info, I managed to line it up.
Another problem I'm having now is that the radio and audio stopped working, and I was wondering if you might know if the harness in front of the actuator has anything to do with the audio, since I was pulling on it.